TDR Interviews Ambra Martone: Co-founder of LabSolue

TDR Interviews Ambra Martone: Co-founder of LabSolue

Written by Nitika Choraria

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Rooted in a lineage that spans nearly a century, Ambra Martone is the third generation of the Martone family, carrying forward a heritage where perfume is both craft and memory. Alongside her sister Giorgia, she has reinterpreted the foundations of Marvin, established by their grandfather Vincenzo, transforming it into LabSolue — a contemporary expression of Italian artisanal perfumery. Conceived as a perfume laboratory and sensory archive, LabSolue becomes a place where history and creativity converge and where compositions draw inspiration from the landscapes, materials and cultural richness of Italy.

Defined by an alliance with nature and a deep connection to place, LabSolue unfolds as an auteur olfactory library where intuition and savoir-faire evolve across generations. Its name reflects its essence: Laboratory, the space of creation and preservation, and Absolute, the purest extraction of natural ingredients refined into fragrance. This philosophy extends into every creation, shaping an ongoing dialogue between raw material and memory. Within spaces such as Magna Pars L’Hotel à Parfum, the brand invites an intimate encounter with scent, positioning perfumery as a living practice that bridges past and future through emotion, craftsmanship, and the language of Italian beauty. Curious to understand more, we stepped closer — and listened. Read on as Ambra Martone shares the vision behind LabSolue, the legacy she continues to shape and the sensory philosophy that defines her world of scent…

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The Design Release: How do you see LabSolue as a bridge between scientific heritage and artistic expression?

Ambra Martone: LabSolue was born precisely at that intersection. We come from a family deeply rooted in the science of perfumery: Marvin, our historic pharmaceutical and cosmetic brand with nearly hundred years of expertise and ICR Industrie Cosmetiche Riunite, our fragrance manufacturer, that has been crafting millions of luxury perfumes for fifty years. At LabSolue, that scientific precision becomes a language for creativity, emotion, experience and lifestyle. It’s where chemistry meets poetry, nature meets art and science meets love. 

TDR: How does your family heritage in perfumery shape LabSolue’s vision?

AM: Our vision is guided by a sense of continuity, not only as a family, but as a community of people who believe in human values, in craftsmanship, and in excellence. Our company is our extended family. For us, “heritage” means evolving tradition with curiosity, staying rooted while always looking forward. We aim to express the essence of Italian elegance — subtle, calm, holistic and timeless — rather than a loud idea of luxury and trends that keep changing.

TDR: What makes a perfumer the right creative partner for a LabSolue fragrance?

AM: It’s about chemistry, both literal and emotional. I look for Perfumers who are not only talented technicians but also refined creators and sensitive storytellers. Like any artist, each Nose has a specific olfactive signature, a style, an aesthetic and I choose her or him for a specific creative reason and intent. The right partner also shares my belief in authenticity, quality, love and respect for nature, the same passion for learning and improving. And there’s always a relationship, on many occasions a real friendship; we enjoy to co-create, getting inspired, traveling together, having drinks and dinners, going to exhibitions and sharing moments of playfulness.

TDR: Can you describe a moment when a perfumer surprised you — in a way that changed the direction of a scent?

AM: It happens quite often — and that’s the true beauty of collaboration: the moment when trust allows creativity to unfold beyond expectation. A recent example is LabSolue 221 Iris, interpreted by master perfumer Maurice Roucel. Instead of the expected softness and nostalgia, he brought an unexpected depth — darkness, sensuality, even a touch of mystery. He evolved our olfactory brief and reminded us that beauty often lies not in perfection, but in confidence and singularity. Interesting to know, iris is also Maurice’s personal perfume, which made his interpretation even more intimate and powerful.

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TDR: Where does a new fragrance begin for you — with a raw material, an emotion or an experience?

AM: Inspiration can come from anywhere — a memory, a landscape, a person, a single ingredient, or even a word that resonates. Every fragrance begins with a feeling I want to express. Then comes the translation: transforming that emotion into matter, through ingredients, structure and balance. It’s a bit like sculpting air with notes — giving invisible form to something deeply human and sensorial.

TDR: What’s been the biggest challenge in balancing sustainability with luxury?

AM: To us, sustainability is not a trend, it’s a way of doing things respectfully, thoughtfully, with integrity. The challenge is to make it visible without shouting. True luxury today is awareness, the quiet kind that comes from quality, transparency and long-lasting beauty.

TDR: How did the idea of a “Hotel à Parfum” come to life at Magna Pars?

AM: Magna Pars was our family’s perfume factory before it became a hotel. When we transformed it, we wanted to preserve that soul. The “Hotel à Parfum” is a place where hospitality meets perfumery — every suite is inspired by a fragrance; every experience tells a scent story. It’s a sensory journey that unites science, art and Italian hospitality.

TDR: How does the Olfactory Aperitif at LabSolue Bar expand the way one experiences scent?

AM: It’s about making scent social again. At LabSolue Bar, you can explore raw materials, smell, talk, taste; it’s a moment of discovery and pleasure. We can call it “olfactory hospitality”: sharing the beauty of perfume the Italian way, with warmth, creativity and conviviality.

TDR: In a world of fast beauty and trends, how do you ensure LabSolue stays timeless?

AM: By slowing down. We don’t follow trends; we cultivate values: quality, craftsmanship, emotion. We believe timelessness is born when things are made to last, both in substance and in spirit.

TDR: Is there a fragrance you’ve dreamed of creating — but haven’t yet?

AM: Always. Perfume is an endless quest. There’s always another story to tell, another note to explore. But perhaps the dream fragrance is the next one, the one that surprises us all over again.

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